Derma Rollers Results Vs Microneedling - We ask the expert

 

Microneedling and dermarolling are on that list of many hot new beauty treatment that claims to give you flawless skin. The treatments have quickly gained popularity and garnered rave reviews. Unlike taking collagen supplements that work from within to promote healthy youthful skin, these more invasive treatments now available in skincare clinic are said to help with all kinds of skin woes including fine lines and wrinkles, acne scars, large pores, and sagging skin.

If you are reading this article, you probably know a little about microneedling and are shopping for a non-medical micro needling device, known as derma rolling that you can use at the convenient of your own home.

Curious to learn more about the difference between both treatments? And do they produce the same results? We turned to some experts to get all the details.

 

1. Difference between Microneedling vs Dermarolling

2. Benefits

3. How soon will you see results

4. How do you care for your skin after treatment

5. How do you use derma roller at home

6. What you should look out for in a derma roller

7. Top 5 best derma rollers

 

First things first, what is microneedling and dermarolling? 

In short, microneedling and dermarolling are both different versions of the same treatment. They both involve rolling hand-held devices with tiny needles over your face to puncture the skin. The difference is that microneedling is done by a licensed professional in an office, says Supreet Sohi, medical esthetician at Skin Sutra Medusa & Cosmetic Center. Where as dermarolling, you can do at home by purchasing a derma roller. 

The microneedling devices licensed professionals use have bigger needles compared to those on a derma roller. That means they can penetrate the skin deeper and more precisely, and also target specific problem areas, says Adina Mahalli, Maple Holistics skincare expert. 

 

 

There’s also a big difference in cost. A derma roller ranges in price from $18 to a couple hundred dollars and can easily be purchased at places like Amazon or Sephora. One microneedling treatment with a pro can cost $200 and up depending on where you go.  

 

 

What are the benefits?

Microneedling and dermarolling are known for stimulating the production of collagen. The needles create “micro injuries” that encourages collagen to rebuild the damaged tissue, Mahalli says, which in turn enhances your overall complexion. 

The increase in collagen production can help with lots of things including fine lines and wrinkles, pore size, acne scarring, pigmentation, sun damage, and saggy skin. You’ll also reap added benefits from the serums and skincare products you use because the treatments will help your skin better absorb them, Mahalli says.

 

How soon will you see results?

Some people might notice microneedling results in as soon as a couple of days but typically it shows up overtime. “Some people see this post-procedure glow,” Sohi says. “Usually, it takes around four weeks, but it still continues to get even better over a period of time. Eight weeks is your peak.”

With dermarolling, the results aren’t as quick. “You might have to do more of a regime of at least once a month and you probably need to do it 3-4 times before you start noticing some results,” says Dr. Clara Yu, board certified family practitioner at Beauty Cult. 

 

What is the microneedling process like?

 

If you want to try microneedling out for yourself, there isn’t much you need to do to prepare for your treatment. If you use Retin-A or any kind of acne medication, you do need to stop using it beforehand. If you take it orally, Supreet recommends discontinuing it for a couple of days before your treatment. And if you use it topically, stop using it five to seven days before.

Once you’re in the chair, your licensed professional will numb your face topically for about 15-20 minutes and then cleanse your skin, Dr. Yu says. Then they’ll roll the microneedling device over your face focusing on any problem areas.

“We usually tend to go a little bit deeper for acne scars,” Dr. Yu says. “We go more superficial if they just want more of a rejuvenation and collagen stimulation to help with fine lines, skin texture, and tone.”

 

The whole microneedling process takes about 15-20 minutes. “The professional doing your treatment should provide you with a schedule of how often you need treatments,” Mahalli says. “It’s usually recommended that you wait around six weeks between each treatment, but this often varies on an individual basis.”

 

How do you care for your skin after a microneedling treatment?

 

Compared to dermarolling, microneedling is a bit more of an invasive procedure. So it does require some recovery time, which varies depending on your skin. After your treatment, your licensed pro will go over after-care instructions. 

Typically, however, seeing a little blood on your skin after a treatment is completely normal, Dr. Yu says. She recommends just leaving it on and letting the skin heal on its own. It’s also important to not put anything on your face, other than sunscreen, for 24 hours following your treatment to help accelerate the healing process.

Post-treatment hydration is also very key, Dr. Yu adds. You’ll usually receive a balm or a take-home kit after your microneedling session to help keep your face moisturized as it will feel a bit dry for a few days.

You can also take collagen liquid internally to speed up the healing process and see even better results. Similar to the microneedling and dermarolling treatments, a collagen supplement, such as Taut’s Advanced Premium Collagen, triggers the body to produce more of its own collagen and result in more youthful, radiant skin. Popping on a Taut Collagen Mask will also do the trick. It’s enriched with rich collagen essence and helps tone, hydrate, and brighten the skin in just 15-20 minutes.

 

How do you use a derma roller at home?

 

Although your skin will reap the most results from a professional microneedling treatment, using a derma roller at home is still a great alternative that can offer many of the same results.

To do it yourself, start by cleansing your skin very well, Dr. Yu says. Then roll your derma roller vertically and then horizontally to create a hashtag grid. She also recommends rolling it a few more times over the areas where you have scarring and large pores.

Recovery time shouldn’t take too long since you’re not penetrating the skin as deeply as you would with a microneedling treatment, Mahalli says.

The after care instructions, however, are the same as with a microneedling treatment.“Keep your skin moisturized and stay away from the sun for the next few days,” Dr. Yu says.

As for frequency, Supreet recommends starting out slow with every other day to see if your skin reacts with any redness or irritation. If your skin tolerates it well, then you can use it daily.

However, it also depends on the size of the needles. “Derma rollers with small needles (around 0.2-0.25mm) can be used daily on the skin,” Mahalli says. “Larger derma rollers (around 0.5-0.75mm) should be used monthly as they are somewhat harsher on the surface of the skin and can lead to aggravated skin if used frequently.”

How you take care of your derma roller is also important. “Rinse the roller in warm water and soak it in rubbing alcohol to disinfect it,” Mahalli says. “Neglecting to sanitize your derma roller can result in the transference of bacteria between uses which can clog your pores and lead to blemishes— the exact opposite of what you want out of dermarolling,”

Dr. Yu, on the other hand, recommends using a brand new derma roller every time. She finds that even when you do soak it in alcohol bacteria can still get into the tips of the needles which can lead to infection or rusting of the needles.

 

Does it hurt?

Both treatments involve needles. So yes, it will be a bit painful, especially if you have a low pain tolerance. Supreet says dermarolling is more gentle since the needles don’t go as deep so it is a great way to ease into it.

Dr. Yu, however, believes microneedling is a more comfortable experience compared to dermarolling thanks to the numbing cream that is applied. The microneedling pen used by professionals also emits a vibration which can distract you from the pain. “Most people don’t say they have any pain at all with the microneedling pen,” she says.

 

Are there any side effects?

 

“Derma rolling shouldn’t result in any side effects as it’s a non-invasive procedure,” Mahalli says. “Your skin might tingle and your complexion should look a little fuller but that’s thanks to the increased blood circulation. The biggest things to look out for with microneedling is the risk of infection or a skin reaction.”
It’s particularly important to look out for a reaction when you have active acne. The needles can make it worse. When you see a professional, they’ll usually do a patch test before doing a larger area, Mahalli says.

What should you look for in a derma roller?

“When it comes to choosing the right derma roller for you, it will depend on your specific needs,” Mahalli says. “The main thing to look out for is the size of the needle that your complexion would benefit from. If you’re new to dermarolling, it’s best to start small and work your way up. Anything below 0.25mm is a good place to start and see how your skin improves.”

 

The 5 Best Derma Rollers

 

MT Dermaroller ($29)

Dr. Yu recommends the MT Derma Roller. It’s affordable price means that it’s good for one-time use. It features medical grade stainless steel needles. You can choose from different size needles (from .2mm to 2.0 mm) depending on your needs. It also comes in a handy sterilized protective case where you can store it and keep it nice and clean. One reviewer said, “I used it last night and this morning when I woke up, my face looked glowy and some hyper pigmentation on the right side of my face is visibly less noticeable.”

Kitsch Micro Derma Facial Roller ($18)

Recommended by Sohi, this derma roller is very inexpensive and is a great option as a starter derma roller. It features .25mm stainless steel needles. It’s said to reduce fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and blemishes, as well as minimize the appearance of large pores. And like all derma rollers, it helps promote new skin regeneration and give you a more youthful complexion. 

 

Nurse Jamie Beauty Stamp Micro-Exfoliation Tool ($50)

This one is technically a stamp and not a derma roller, but the idea behind it is the same. Instead of rolling, you press and lift the tool on your skin. It’s created by celebrity skincare expert Nurse Jamie so you know you’re in good hands. It’ll help with fine lines and wrinkles, pores, and dull, uneven skin texture. Use it twice per week or as needed. All you do is stamp your entire face two or three times. Each time in the opposite direction avoiding the eye and lip area. Replace it every 30 to 60 days depending on how often you use it. 

 

GloPro Microneedling Regeneration Tool ($199)

This one is a bit more of an investment but the price tag is well worth it. Use it right before you apply skincare products to get maximum absorption. It also uses red light therapy and Vibrotactile Stimulation to take the benefits to the next level. For best results, it’s recommended you use it for at least one minute three times a week for a month. 

 

Environ Gold Roll-CIT ($298)

The Rolls-Royce of at-home derma rollers, the Environ Gold Roll CIT is 14 carat gold plated and uses the highest grade 316 surgical stainless steel needles (size .2mm). The gold is not just for a fancy look. Gold actually hinders bacteria growth making it more sanitary to use. Start by using it twice a week and work your way up to daily.